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California Fool's Gold -- Exploring Hacienda Heights

Posted by Eric Brightwell, June 19, 2011 02:00pm | Post a Comment
MY ADOBE HACIENDA NESTED IN THE WESTERN HILLS -- HACIENDA HEIGHTS


This blog entry is about the community of Hacienda Heights, which rocketed to the top (becoming the most voted for neighborhood yet) following efforts by the City of Hacienda Heights on Facebook. Initially I was looking forward to meeting some locals to play tour guide but by the time I came they weren't able. No worries, however, as I brought along Hacienda Heights native Brandi Shaver and recurring companion Will Fleming. To get in the mood I set the CARDIS's radio controls to KAZN, a Mandarin station broadcast out of Pasadena.

 
Pendersleigh & Sons' Official Maps of Hacienda Heights and the San Gabriel Valley

Hacienda Heights is a San Gabriel Valley city inthe located on the northern face of the Puente Hills and the floor of La Puente Valley. The highest point in the Heights is Workman Hill. Hacienda Heights is neighbored to the south by the SELACO communities of Whittier and La Habra Heights. To the west is North Whittier. North are Avocado Heights and the City of Industry. To the east is Rowland Heights which along with Hacienda Heights is sometimes referred to as The Heights


Like its neighbor, Rowland Heights, Hacienda Heights is primarily a residential neighborhood, with wealthier residents residing in the hills, and more modest homes and businesses in the flats of the north.

The CARDIS arrived in the morning and under cloudy skies and the group was greeted by the purplicious sight of copious jacaranda trees.

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Prior to the Spanish Conquest, the Puente Valley (between the Puente Hills and South San Jose Hills to the north) was inhabited by the Tongva, who named the area "Awig-na," meaning "abiding place." The Spanish founded the nearby San Gabriel Mission in 1771 and the indigenous people were subjugated. Their land in what's now Hacienda Heights was used for ranching and grazing to support the mission.

   
             John Rowland                          William Workman                                         Rancho La Puente

After Mexico gained independence in 1822, the missions were secularized and the former Spanish holdings were sold and granted to private parties. Two such parties were John Rowland and his partner William Workman. In November 1841 they arrived in a wagon train from Taos with a group of settlers from Missouri and New Mexico. In the early part of the followingyear, the two applied for a land grant from governor Juan B. Alvarado. For $1,000 and pleading to employ Tongva, they obtained the 49,000 acre Rancho La Puente. They used the land to for cattle ranching, wheat production and wine and brandy distillation. The two partners amicably split their holdings in 1852.

Rowland prospered as did Workman for a time. However, Workman lost almost everything following the 1875 failure of the poorly managed Temple-Workman Bank he'd founded with his son-in-law, Francis Pliny Fisk Temple. Elias J. "Lucky" Baldwin issued a loan which allowed the bank to re-open but with conditions that were almost impossible to meet. The bank again failed in 1876 and a despondent Workman shot himself in the head at his home on May 17 of the same year.

After the competing Southern Pacific and Santa Fe Railroads arrived in the area, Lucky Baldwin began subdividing his possession although La Puente Valley remained primarily agricultural until the 20th century. Four years after Baldwin's death, his daughter Anita Baldwin sold 1,826 acres to developers Edwin Hart and Jed Torrance who established the community of North Whittier Heights.


Cattle and sheep ranching largely gave way to avocado, citrus and walnut groves and North Whittier Heights became well-known for its walnuts. The North Whittier Heights Citrus Association and opened a packing plant near Ninth and Clark avenues and the small community that grew up in the area became known as Hillgrove.

  
                            La Puente Valley in 1935                                                       Hacienda Heights in 1965

As with so much of Southern California, North Whittier heights grew into a large suburb of LA after World War II, with massive scale housing especially occurring in 1957. In 1961, the residents of North Whittier Heights successfully petitioned to change their town's name to Hacienda Heights (which, if you think about it, is kind of a silly name, no?) A master development plan was drawn up and over the next two decades the community saw a lot of housing construction. Several times citizens attempted to incorporate but, being primarily a bedroom community, its usually felt that the proposed city's sales tax base is too small to support a city.

For most of 20th Century, Hacienda Heights was primarily home to Anglo Angelenos. In the 1980s, Latinos, many from the Eastside and Midtown, began moving to the hilly suburb. By 1990, the Latino population was dominant and, up till the early 1990s, Hacienda Heights was regularly referred to as "The Chicano Beverly Hills."

In the 1990s and the decades since the area has seen another dramatic demographic shift with the arrival of many Taiwanese-Americans. Although there were Asian-Americans in the San Gabriel Valley for decades, real growth began in the late 1970s, when realtor Frederic Hsieh began promoting Monterey Park as the "Chinese Beverly Hills" in Hong Kong and Taiwan
 

In the years that followed, many Chinese businesspeople and their families moved to the area. By the mid-1980s, people were commonly referring to Monterey Park as Little Taipei. Even as more and more Chinese mainlanders and Hoa arrived Cantonese became the dominant language as many wealthy and by-then-established Taiwanese-American families began to relocate to classy communities like Arcadia and San Marino, nearby communities like Temple City, and less-developed communities like Walnut, Rowland Heights and Hacienda Heights, communities whose rolling hills practically begged to be covered by big, new-money/no-class McMansions.

Nowadays the community is mostly Latino and Asian-American - 46% Latino (mostly Mexican) of any race, 37% Asian (mostly Taiwanese and Chinese) and 5% non-Latino white. 
 


One of (if not the) main draws of Hacienda Heights is the food. Every year the community and Rowland Heights get together to host Taste of the Heights at Pathfinder Park. On the day of our visit we arrived in the morning and stopped at Four Sea Restaurant for a delicious breakfast of fried onion cake with egg, a rice roll with pickled vegetables and veggie pork, fried leek pockets and steaming hot soy milk.

Other well-represented cuisines include Chinese, Japanese, Korean and Mexican and are represented by Akasaka Restaurant, Boiling Point (smelly Tofu!), Boston Cafe, California Stonegrill, Casa Blanca Mexican Restaurant, Casa De Tacos, Casa Jimenez Mexican, China Gate, China Mandarin Restaurant, China Star, China Wok Fast Food, Cindy's Kitchen, Cindy Liu Deli, Da Bok Tofu Restaurant, Daikokuya, Deerfield Restaurant, Donut King, Dumpling Master Restaurant, E Mei Shan Chinese Restaurant, Earthen Restaurants, El Curtido, Flame Broiler, Foo Foo Tei, Fruity Deli-cious, Garden Fresh Vegetarian Food, Hacienda Grill, Hacienda Village Meat & Italian Deli, In-N-Out Burger, JJ Bakery, John's Kitchen, Katana Sushi and Ramen, Little Sheep Mongolian Hot Pot & Grill, Los Frijolitos, Malan Han Noodle, Montanos, Nini Bakery, Oh! Crab, Osaka Seafood Buffet, Ostioneria Colima, Pak Kai Market / Deli, Pauline's Chinese Kitchen, Run Taco Run, Senor Baja, Seoul Korea Restaurant, Shin Sen Gumi, Sokaku Sushi, Soo Ra Sang Korean BBQ, Sushi Umi, Taipan Kitchen, Taipei Ning Gi Hot Pot Restaurant, Taiwan Deli, Tamaya, Tasty Noodle House, Tiramisu Cafe, Tokyo Lobby Restaurant, Tony's Pizza & Pasta, Whimsical Frozen Yogurt Gelato, World's Best Pizza and Yunnan Garden.
 

Oh, and although I normally forgo mentioning international restaurant chains, Hacienda Heights is home to the first (only?) Feng Shui McDonald's.



Rivaling or perhaps even surpassing Hacienda Heights' eateries as a draw is the largest Buddhist temple complex in the Western Hemishpere, Hsi Lai Temple, which opened in 1988. It was founded by Venerable Master Hsing Yun, the 48th Patriarch of the Lin-chi line of Ch'an. He is also the founder of the Fo Guang Shan Buddhist Order whose headquarters are in Kaohsiung, Taiwan.



The large Temple includes many sites of interest including the Bodhisattva Hall, the Arhat Garden, the Avalokitesvara Garden, the large Founder's Statue, the Main Shrine, the Requiem Pagoda, Meditation Hall, Translation and Publishing Center, Fo Guang Yuan Hsi Lai Art Gallery (where they sell Buddhist DVDs and CDs), the Tea Room and the Dining Hall.



Although not especially hungry we decided to eat again in keeping with Taiwanese customs. Since Humanistic Buddhists believe that food and drink should be consumed as vehicles for nourishment and nothing else, it's pretty bland. In fact, garlic and spices are seen as obstacles to achieving a pure and clear mind. It definitely was decently prepared and could even possibly serves as a culinary bridge to the East for bland-food-favoring Middlewesterners.
 

Schabarum Park

Events Hsi Lai hosts many of the events and observances in Hacienda Heights, including the Buddhist Sangha, Buddha's Birthday and Dharma Day. The St. John Vianney Church hosts the annual Early California Days. There's also and annual Fourth of July celebration. Schabarum Park (which mostly lies in Rowland Heights) hosts annual summer concerts.
 

The largest landfill in the United States, the 2.8 km2 Puente Hills Landfill, is partially located within Hacienda Heights. It was featured in the Penn and Teller series Bullshit! as part of their campaign against recycling. It also appeared in an episode of MegaStructures called "Garbage Mountain." Up to 13,200 tons of refuse are in by up to 1,600 trucks daily. The landfill rises up to a height of 150 meters but will close in 2013.
 

The biogas generated by the trash's decomposition produces enough electricity to service approximately 70,000 area homes and is sold to Southern California Edison. The Puente Hills Landfill Native Habitat Preservation Authority is a Joint Powers Authority with a Board of Directors consisting of the City of Whittier, County of Los Angeles, Sanitation Districts of Los Angeles County, and the Hacienda Heights Improvement Association. The Habitat Authority is acquires, restores and mangoes open space in the Puente Hills, with the primary purpose of protecting biological diversity. They also offer hikes and educational programs.

Other Parks of Hacienda Heights include the smaller Los Robles Park, Hacienda La Puente Park, Manzanita Park, Thomas Burton Park, County Wood Park, Pepperbrook Park and a small corner of Arroyo Pescadero Park
 
Retrieving a murder victim's body in Tunrbull Canyon

Turnbull Canyon, which passes through North Whittier and connects Hacienda Heights to Whittier, is a source of many local legends involving Satanic Cults, extraterrestrials, the KKK, a witch house, a hanging tree, murderous psychopaths, ghosts, an abandoned insane asylum and more. Some of the kookier stories involve X-Files style government cover-ups. It was supposedly (I can find no credible source) known to the Tongva as Hutukng-na, meaning "dark place." Not surprisingly, its a popular destination for thrill-seeking teenagers out for kicks and killers looking for a dumpsite. 

Bixby Plaza


Hacienda Center


Plaza Stimson

There are several shopping centers in Hacienda Heights like Gale Square Shopping Center, Plaza Stimson and Bixby Plaza but, to be honest, they're not the sorts of malls I see people going to just to hang out (well, not young ones. I remember going to a red egg party at Saka Seafood Buffet at the Hacienda Center years ago.


Revisiting it we popped into the local 99 Ranch Market to find that another observance was underway, the Shanghai Food Festival. There were numerous free samples being given out including lotion, golden kiwis, red bean ice cream, seaweed salad, asian pears and more.
 

In addition to the TV episodes filmed at the landfill, Hacienda Heights was featured in an eponymous English language novela. It's also the birthplace of The Spectacular Spider-man's Joshua Keaton and Caprice Bourret of The Surreal Life. It's also the birthplace of Brooklyn-based filmmaker/musician/photographer Tiffany Huang. Oh yeah, incontinence spokesperson Stacy Ann "Fergie" Ferguson is from there. Also, in music-related news, it's home to the Sound of China Guzheng Music Promotion Center.

Well, being a quiet, largely residential Taiwanese-American neighborhood, the nightlife options are few... with more tea houses than bars. The two bars, City Lights Cocktail Lounge and Sunset Room, compete against Boba Tea Hut, Guppy Tea HouseQuickly, Tea Station and Tenju Tea House for thirsty night owls. There are, however, a higher than average number of liquor stores suggesting that not everyone is a boba-teetotaler. Other nightlife options are Joy Karaoke and Empire Hookah Lounge.
 


Until next time when we head to Huntington Beach!
 
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To vote for more Los Angeles County communitiesclick here. To vote Los Angeles neighborhoods to be the subject of future blog entries, click here. To vote for Orange County neighborhoods, vote here.

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California Fool's Gold -- A Santa Monica Mountains primer

Posted by Eric Brightwell, June 1, 2011 04:00pm | Post a Comment

WEST OF THE WESTSIDE -- THE SANTA MONICA MOUNTAINS

The Santa Monica Mountains are a traverse mountain range that stretches from the Pacific Ocean 64 kilometers east to the flood plain where the LA River is fed by the Verdugo Wash. The southern side of the eastern end of the range is almost always referred to as the Hollywood Hills. The central portion lies within LA's westside and the foothills are home to some of LA's most affluent neighborhoods (e.g. Bel Air, Beverly Hills and Pacific Palisades). To the north, separated by the mountains, is the San Fernando Valley. Technically, the Channel Islands are also part of the range, although they're separated from the mainland by water.


Pendersleigh & Sons' Official Map of the Santa Monica Mountains

The western portion of the Santa Monica Mountains separates the Conejo Valley from Malibu and the neighboring communities that make up the Los Angeles district known as the Santa Monica Mountains area. The district borders Ventura County to the west and north, the San Fernando Valley to the northeast and the Westside to the east. 


The chaparral covering the region is home to mountain lions, steelheads, Southern Pacific Rattlesnakes, various kingsnakes, Gopher snakes, Garter snakes, Western fence lizards, bobcats, mule deer, golden eagles and other less glamorous creatures. The area around the shore is home to dolphins, octopi, sea gulls, crabs, anemones, mussels, sharks, cormorants, seals, pelicans, sea lions and whales. For thousands of years, the land was shared by the Tongva in the east and the Chumash. The Chumash called the area along the Pacific "Humaliwo," meaning "the surf sounds loudly," and Malibu derives its name from this. There is some evidence that the two sea-going peoples had contact with the Polynesians. The natives were later conquered and displaced by the Spanish. Later, the land became part of Mexico. After that, it was conquered by the US. Today it is home to six separate communities and a large, unincorporated region in the middle. 

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California Fool's Gold -- An Antelope Valley Primer

Posted by Eric Brightwell, May 25, 2011 02:00pm | Post a Comment
WHERE THE DEER AND THE ANTELOPE PLAY -- THE ANTELOPE VALLEY


The Antelope Valley
is a large region located in the western edge of the Mojave Desert situated between the Tehachapi and the San Gabriel Mountains. It is neighbored by the regions of Kern County/The Central Valley to the north, Northwest Los Angeles County to the west, Angeles Forest to the south and San Bernadino County/The Inland Empire to the east. Historically it was home to the Kawaiisu, Kitanemuk, Serrano and Tataviam people. Spaniards invaded in the 1770s and conquered the land.


Pendersleigh & Sons' Official Map of the Antelope Valley

Antelope Valley's name comes from the pronghorns which populated the area until the 1880s. Though more closely related to giraffes and okapi, the are wrongly but commonly referred to as "pronghorn antelopes."


Today, the main industries of the valley's communities are aerospace, agriculture, manufacturing and mining. A population boom began in the 1980s and, in the the last ten years, the principle cities in the area, Lancaster and Palmdale, have passed Pomona to become the fifth and sixth largest cities in Los Angeles County. The population is approximately 50% white, 30% Latino, 13% black and 4% Asian.

And now an introduction to the communities of the Antelope Valley:

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ACTON


Acton is a small community founded above the valley floor in the Sierra Pelona Mountains in 1887 by gold miners. Its first hotel and saloon, The 49er, opened in 1889 and is still open for business. Acton appeared in Army of Darkness, Blood Work, Duel, Little Miss Sunshine and Terminator 3. The videos for Radiohead's "High and Dry," Metallica's "The Day That Never Comes," and Tom Petty's "Swingin" were also filmed in various Acton locales. It's also home to the Polsa Rosa Movie Ranch. Acton is also the least diverse community in the valley, with a population that's 81% white (mostly German, Irish and Canadian) and 12% Latino (mostly Mexican).


DESERT RELIEF

Desert Relief was listed on U.S. Geological Survey maps at least as late as 1934. Nowadays there are about five houses in the area and not much else. Just east are the ruins of the old Llano Del Rio Company of Nevada commune.


JUNIPER HILLS


Juniper Hills (Source: 

Juniper Hills is a small town located in the foothills on the northern slope of the San Gabriel Mountains, just west of the Devil's Punchbowl County Park. The Juniper Hills Community Association was created in 1948 and maintains a community center.


LAKE LOS ANGELES


Tiny Lake Los Angeles is the youngest and poorest community in the valley. The lake of the name is a dry one located beneath the Lovejoy Buttes. Beginning in the 1930s, it was a popular filming location, especially in the TV series Bonanza. The population is 47% white (mostly German), 36% Latino (mostly Mexican and Salvadoran) and 10% black.


LANCASTER


Lancaster is the ninth fastest growing city in the US and is the largest city in Antelope Valley. It was founded by real estate developer M.L. Wicks in the late 19th century. In the 1970s, it was home to the Flat Earth Society. In films, it was a location for Rob Zombie's The Devil's Rejects. The grooved Civic Musical Road, when driven across, plays Gioachino Rossini's "William Tell Overture!" The population is 53% white (mostly German), 24% Latino (mostly Mexican), 15% black and 4% Asian (mostly Filipino).


LARGO VISTA

Largo Vista is small town located at the northern edge of Angeles National Forest.


LEONA VALLEY


Affluent Leona Valley, located where the Sierra Pelona Mountains meet the Mojave Desert, is the wealthiest community in the Antelope Valley. The land was purchased in 1913 by Frank D. Hall who established a dairy farm in the Leonis Valley (which he renamed, "Leona"). The farm failed and in 1922, it was subdivided and sold to new residents. Today, the residents are 80% white (mostly German and English), 7% Latino and 6% Asian (mostly Vietnamese and Indian).


LLANO


Ruins of Llano del Rio, near Llano (source: Center for Land Use Interpretation)


Llano is a small town with a population of about 1200. Just north of town are the ruins of the Llano Del Rio Company of Nevada commune. 


NEENACH


Neenach is a small farm town of about 800 people. It was founded in the 1870s by Danish settlers from Neenah, Wisconsin.


NORTHEAST ANTELOPE VALLEY


Piute Ponds (image source: Bill Cullen)
Northeast Antelope Valley is a sparsely-populated area of the valley. Within its borders is the separate community of Lake Los Angeles. The mostly flat terrain is punctuated with several mountains and buttes. There are several parks and wildlife sanctuaries, including the Alpine Butte Wildlife Sanctuary, the Carl O Gerhardy Wildlife Sanctuary, the Mescal Wildlife Sanctuary, Saddleback Butte State Park, Butte Valley Wildflower Sanctuary, the Phacelia Wildlife Sanctuary and the Theodore Payne Wildlife Sanctuary. It's also home to the Antelope Valley Indian Museum. Since Antelope Valley is a true desert, it is something of a surprise that the largest freshwater wetlands in the county are located there, the Piute Ponds. The ponds are part of the Harley Berhow Recreational Area and support 200 varieties of migratory birds including the Black-crowned night heron, the Great heron, the Great horned owl, and the Western snowy plover. The human residents are 62% white (mostly German and English), 25% Latino (mostly Mexican and Salvadoran) and 8% black.


NORTHWEST ANTELOPE VALLEY


Northwest Antelope Valley is a another sparsely-populated area of the valley. The population is 78% white (mostly German and English) and 14% Latino (mostly Mexican). Its Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve draws many visitors who come to enjoy rolling fields of the California state flower. It's also home to the Arthur B. Ripley Desert Woodland State Park, Desert Pines Wildlife Sanctuary and Fairmont Reservoir.


PALMDALE


Palmdale was established in 1886 by mostly German and Swiss Lutherans from the Middle West. Today its population is 41% white (mostly German), 38% Latino (mostly Mexican and Salvadoran), 14% black and 4% Asian. It wasn't incorporated until 1962. It's been mentioned or featured in the films Mac and Me, Star Trek Generations, Volcano, Bubble Boy, Star Trek Nemesis, The Day after Tomorrow, The Terminal, Pirates of the Caribbean - At World's End and Transformers - Revenge of the Fallen as well as sung about by Afroman and Frank Zappa.


QUARTZ HILL


Quartz Hill is a small town that until the 1970s was largely agricultural, with crops of almonds, alfalfa, as well as turkey farms. With water diverted, alfalfa crops dried up. The almond orchards were destroyed by disease. Nowadays the economy is driven by Lockheed Martin, Northrop Gruman, Staples, Boston Scientific and Starbucks. The population is 74% white (mostly German and Irish), 15% Latino (mostly Mexican) and 6% black.


SOUTHEAST ANTELOPE VALLEY & PEARBLOSSOM


Southeast Antelope Valley is another sparsely-populated area of the valley. Within its borders are Lake Palmdale, the Blalock Wildlife Sanctuary and Pearblossom Park. Its southern portion is dominated by Angeles National Forest. The population is 76% white (mostly German and Irish) and 16% Latino (mostly Mexican and Colombian).


SUN VILLAGE


Sun Village began as one of the few places blacks were allowed to buy homes and it's still home of the Jackie Robinson County Park. With the passage of fair housing and nondiscrimination laws, black residents largely left for other areas. Today the population is 47% white (mostly German), 39% Latino (mostly Mexican and Salvadoran) and 11% black. Frank Zappa's music early music career was associated with the town and he commemorated it with his song, "Village of the Sun."


VALYERMO


St. Andrew's Abbey (image source: Saint Andrew's Abbey)
Valyermo is a small town with a population of about 450. It is the home of Saint Andrew's Abbey, a Benedictine monastery.

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And so Antelope fans, to vote for any towns in the Antelope Valley or any other Los Angeles County communities to be covered on the blog, vote here. To vote for Los Angeles neighborhoods, click here. To vote for Orange County neighborhoods, vote here. And remember, don't squat with your spurs on!
 

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California Fool's Gold -- A Pomona Valley Primer

Posted by Eric Brightwell, May 17, 2011 04:35pm | Post a Comment
BETWIXT THE BLOSSOM AND THE BOUGH -- THE POMONA VALLEY

 
The Pomona Valley is located on the far eastern edge of Los Angeles County -- actually straddling it and San Bernadino County. The towns of Montclair, Ontario, San Antonio Heights and Upland are all located across the San Antonio River, on the San Bernadino side, in the Inland Empire.


Since I've yet to expand beyond writing about towns and neighborhoods of LA County (and Orange County, which was formerly part of LA County) to San Bernadino and Riverside Counties, this Pomona Valley primer is focusing only on the Pomona Valley communities within Los Angeles County: Claremont, Pomona and La Verne. (San Dimas and Diamond Bar, which straddle the border of the Pomona and San Gabriel Valleys, I've chosen to include in the San Gabriel Valley.)

LOCATION OF THE POMONA VALLEY


Pendersleigh & Sons' Official Map of the Pomona Valley

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California Fool's Gold -- A San Gabriel Valley Primer

Posted by Eric Brightwell, April 24, 2011 06:33pm | Post a Comment
GABRIEL'S HORN DOES SOUND -- THE SAN GABRIEL VALLEY

Invariably when one speaks or hears of "The Valley," the valley in question is the San Fernando (despite the fact that there are at least six major and loads of minor valleys in Los Angeles County). For the same reasons that I'm mildly annoyed when people refer to "THE City" or "THE Bay," the notion of "THE Valley" smacks of ignorance at best and unpleasant small-mindedness at worst. This blog entry is an introduction to the San Gabriel Valley, that great and amazing expanse of suburbs, boomburbs, exurbs and enthoburbs (any "suburb" portmanteaus I've missed?) with surprisingly significant history and variety of cultures beneath the seemingly uniform surface of bandage-colored strip malls and homes. That being said, at the time of writing, the San Fernando Valley page on Facebook has 25,519 fans whereas the San Gabriel Valley page has a mere ten.


Pendersleigh & Sons' Official Map of the San Gabriel Valley


GEOGRAPHY

The San Gabriel Valley is bordered by the the Verdugo Hills and San Rafael Hills to the northwest; the San Gabriel Mountains (and Angeles Forest region) to the north; The Pomona Valley and Inland Empire to the east; the Puente Hills and San Jose Hills and, on the other side, Orange County to the south; SELACO to the south west; and The Eastside and NELA to the west.

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