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ไทยทาวน์ - Thai Town on Songkran

Posted by Eric Brightwell, April 5, 2010 01:23pm | Post a Comment

Apsonsi  Thai Town

Both apsonsi and official city signs mark the entrances to Thai Town


This entry is about the Los Angeles neighborhood of Thai Town. To vote for other Los Angeles neighborhoods, click here. To vote for Los Angeles County communities not technically part of Los Angeles, vote here. To vote for Orange County neighborhoods, vote here.

Map of Thai Town  Siam Square

         Pendersleigh & Sons' Official Map of Thai Town                                            Siam Square

Thai Town is roughly boundried by Hollywood Blvd on the north, Normandie on the east, Western on the west, and Sunset (or Fountain by some accounts -- although there's nothing Thai south of Sunset) on the south. The neighborhood is home to about 46 Thai business, including markets, clothing shops, massage parlors, bookstores and a seemingly ever-growing number of delicious restaurants. Hollywood Boulevard is the main commercial and cultural center of the neighborhood although there are businesses of note on Sunset as well.

Pendersleigh & Sons Cartography's Map of Hollywood
Pendersleigh & Sons' Official Map of Hollywood


To the northwest is Franklin Village, to the north is the neighborhood of Los Feliz, to the west, east and south is Little Armenia

Thailand Plaza Thailand Plaza

The mighty Thailand Plaza

In 1965, the passage of the Immigration and Nationality Act made it easier for Asians to move to the US. Many Thai came initially to study but ended up staying, often opening businesses in the area that became Thai Town. One of those early businesses, Hollywood Hair Design, is still there, still run by the same owner, Tony -- who's something of a Thai Town historian. During the Asian financial crises of the 1980s, many Thai came to the US to look for work and California became the number one destination. In 1992, a group of Thai business owners and city council member Michael Woo led efforts to establish an official Thai Town. At the same time, the neon-lit, sun-faded, pigeon-defiled Thailand Plaza was constructed. Within its walls (and grimy parking lot) operate a surprising number and variety of businesses.

Freed Thai Garment Workers Thai Celebrities
            Forced laborers demonstrating the Asian squat                                  Help me identify the Thai celebrities

In April 1994, the Thai Community Development Center was established, which led to the creation of the Thai Town Formation Committee. The following August, the Thai CDC played a key role in the liberation of 72 Thai slaves in El Monte. By the late '90s, Los Angeles (with roughly 80,000 Thais and Thai Chinese) was home to the largest Thai population outside of Thailand. In October 1999 the first Thai Town in the US was established, sometimes referred to as Thailand's 77th province. 

Thai Town Express Original Thai BBQ

Thai Town Express                                                                              Original Thai BBQ

Although Thai Town is a decidedly small neighborhood, it somehow continues to support more and more Thai businesses. In Thai Town, the transfer of ownership isn't usually accompanied by fanfare or the addition of Thai architectural elements. Usually a banner is just thrown up and sometimes the results are pretty comical, as with the Thai Town Express, located in a former hot dog stand, Red's. An enormous hot dog with relish fading from green to gray remains.The old store, Armenia, was replaced by Nuch Royal Thai Spa. It's always heartening to see a chain replaced by a superior restaurant. A Taco Bell became part of a smaller chain, Original Thai BBQ. Recently, an uncommonly bad Sizzler (grainy apples, biscuits like hockey pucks) finally went out of business -- most likely to make way for, fingers crossed, another Thai joint.

Thai Town Marketplace Posing for Photos in Thai Town
            Future site of the Thai Town Marketplace                                           People posing for pictures in Thai Town

The businesses above the subway station (currently Out of the Closet and a bank) are scheduled to transform into the Thai Town Marketplace. All these new Thai restaurants join a crowded field that includes Hi Thai, Thai Town Noodle, Pa Ord, Rodded, Sanamluang, Thai Patio, Jitlada, Ruen Pair, Ganda, Vim, Ocha, Bhan Kanom, Yai, Red Corner, Sapp, Torung and others.

Wat Thai Singha Beer Garden

Wat Thai                                                                                     Singha Beer Garden


On the first Sunday in April, Thai Town celebrates Songkran, the Thai New Year. A lot of the Songkran festivities take place at Wat Thai, in nearby North Hollywood. In Thai Town, a less reverent celebration takes place, usually featuring parades, a 5k run, a curry festival, muay thai fights, a Sing Ha beer garden and numerous food and business stands set up in the middle of the street.

Kruang Tedd and Jumbo's Clown Room Thai Town Shrine

                Kruang Tedd and Jumbo's Clown Room                                    A Buddhist Shrine in the Heart of Thai Town

When people come to LA, many are surprised at how sleepy it gets at an early hour. Thai Town is one of the few parts of the city that regularly parties till four in the morning. Kruang Tedd is a popular destination with karaoke and live music. There's also the Relax Pub, technically located just outside of Thai Town, but only by half a block.

Thai Town Beauty Pageant Lady Boys

Ladies of Thai Town


There's also The Stone, which has karaoke, open mic nights, blues night and kathoey shows. Interestingly, kathoey (or ladyboys) were an (understandable) obsession of Alan Partridge, a character played by Steve Coogan, who briefly dated Hole's Courtney Love (less understandable), a former stripper, at famed nearby Thai Town strip joint Jumbo's Clown Room.

A variety of music can be heard in many of Thai Town's numerous restaurants. For years, the biggest name in Thai Town was Kavee "Kevin" Thongprecha, better known as "Thai Elvis." For years he performed at Palms Thai, helping (along with delicious food and wonderful staff) make it the best known restaurant in the neighborhood. Many came for the kitsch and novelty at first but eventually came to genuinely appreciate the sincerity and quality of his performance. In fact, at one point he even ventured to Silver Lake's famed live music venue, Spaceland, where he memorably performed with a live band. Over the years, he's even spawned imitators, but none has threatened the reign of the king. A few years ago, Palms relocated to a bigger space outside Thai Town. Kevin still performs most nights, as do many others.


At Amoeba, there used to be a Tony Jaa section in Martial Arts but at some point a decision was made to get rid of it. We also have a small selection of Thai music and movies. I don't know much about Thai music, but I was once told that my attempts to sing Michael Jackson's "Human Nature" sounded more like the singing of Thongchai "Bird" McIntyre.

Dokya Dokya
             The parking lot DVD section at Dokya                                                                        Inside Dokya

It's a different story at Dokya USA, which is packed with books, music, DVDs and VCDs of Thai and Thai-dubbed products. I couldn't find any movies that were filmed in Thai Town... unless you count the many youtube videos filmed there, such as the largely uneventful Thai Town Walking. Thai Town has shown up a couple of times in TV episodes, including Anthony Bourdain's No Reservations, where he's accompanied by the Noodle Whore.


There was also an episode of
Huell Howser's show where, with chef Jet Tila, he explores several establishments in his imitable manner.


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